The last interview that Swiss Info conducted with Swiss textile designer Erich Biehle, who died at the age of 83 in June of this year, as finally been published and he talks about his career and his life in a riveting conversation.
Biehle’s studio was noted to be home to a number of photos, including one of actor Audrey Hepburn in a Givenchy dress and another of fashion editor Anna Wintour wearing a Michael Kors designed outfit.
All the fabric patterns were created by Biehle, who discussed his experiences Hepburn and French designers Yves Saint-Laurent and Hubert de Givenchy. Biehle also talked about why he decided not to stay in New York.
“I introduced geometric shapes into textile design. In Paris in the 1950s small patterns and flowers were dominant” Biehle said, during an interview with Swiss Info. “[Spanish designer] Cristóbal Balenciaga, for example, would have opted for lily of the valley or a polka dot. Once, when I visited his studio, Balenciaga asked me to make some foulards for him. He wanted to hang them in his rundown display window to give his studio a fresher look. He loved my designs with their large geometric shapes.
My foulards for Yves Saint-Laurent featured a different style of geometry that referenced the artist Johannes Itten. Itten taught me about the effects of shape and colour and how they influence mood. Only later did I realise how much Johannes Itten and his Bauhaus style influenced me.
A pattern is visually stronger than a red dress. A pattern is more memorable. When Yves Saint-Laurent’s foulards came on the market, my designs were available all over the world.”
Biehle also reflected on the success he obtained throughout his career.
“Much of my life happened by chance, such as learning about the wax technique in New York that I still use” he said. “Wax dries quickly, which forces you to work spontaneously. But it was no coincidence that I was also ready to go out and take risks.
I worked very hard. When something fascinates and captivates you, it gives you energy and never becomes a burden. When I went to Paris, it didn’t matter to me how much I would earn for my work. What mattered to me was who I was working for and what I was creating. And also being recognised for my achievements.”
You can read the entire interview over at Swiss Info.
